
This recipe doesn’t have a lot of green. It also comes from Julia Child, so I’m not sure I’m at liberty to criticize.
Like countless other people, my formative years in cooking are peppered with memories of watching and listening to Julia Child’s sing-song voice directing me through the construction of dish after dish. The 1980′s in rural West-Central Illinois was a time before satellite and cable, and even when cable came to “town”, we were too far out-of-town to subscribe. This was of no consequence to my father, who felt Public Television was the only television I needed. I was raised watching Zoom, Masterpiece Theatre, and yes, Julia Child.
Despite these early influences, when I started collecting cookbooks in the mid- 1990′s, it never really occurred to me to purchase a Child-penned cookbook. Mastering the Art of French Cooking was completely off my radar, and I suspect it had disappeared from store shelves entirely until the Meryl Streep/Amy Adams movie Julie and Julia brought it back to the forefront.

For me, my awareness of this definitive tome of early 60′s French home cooking came upon reading Child’s memoir My Life in France, which I purchased on my Nook while relaxing in a vacation hotel room. The movie had come and gone from theatres without a bit of notice from me, but this book had me mesmerized. I felt consumed by the process of creating the Mastering cookbook and the recounting of Child’s life in France, including the her struggle to complete a culinary education, and suddenly I needed these two volumes. Interestingly, I saw Julie and Julia sometime later and was underwhelmed, since it focused so superficially on the events I found so intoxicating in the text. The movie is rarely better than the book.

Last Christmas, my husband gifted me an anniversary set of volumes one and two of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and they’ve sat at eye level on the library shelves for nearly a year without use. Over the weekend, I needed to make something for sunday dinner and I finally picked up Volume One, turning to the index for Chicken.
Poulet en Cocotte is a recipe I learned from America’s Test Kitchen and make often. It’s likely my favorite way to roast a bird. With that experience in mind, this recipe stood out to me and I had to try it.
As I said before, there isn’t a lot of green in it. Even the herbs in the recipe are confined to a bouquet garni bag, and only the flavors saw the light of day. Like any self-respecting 1960′s-era Julia Child recipe, it’s also fat heavy, and I’ll likely cut the amount of bacon in at least half next time I make it. A salad or green vegetable is a must with this heavy dish, but in a relatively small quantity. The finished product was delicious and came together easily.
Poulet en Cocotte Bonne Femme
(Casserole-roasted Chicken with Bacon, Onions and Potatoes)
Adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking
1/2 lb bacon, cut into 1/2-inch lardons
3 tablespoons butter, divided
3 pound chicken, trussed
20-25 white pearl onions
1-1/2 half fingerling or new potatoes
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 sprigs parsley
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 fresh bay leaf
Place herbs in a small bouquet garni bag or cheesecloth tied with twine. Set aside.
Fill a two-quart saucepan with water and bacon lardons and bring to boil for 10 minutes. Drain and allow bacon to dry.
While the bacon is cooling, cut a small X into the bottom of each pearl onion, then bring a pot of water to boil. Add the onions and boil for 5 minutes. Drain and shock with cold water. When cool enough to handle, remove the skins and cut off the root. Set aside.
Cut the fingerling potatoes into 1 1/2 to 2-inch chunks and place in 2 quart saucepan. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Drain and shock with cold water. Set aside.
Melt 1 tablespoon butter to a heavy Dutch oven, then add bacon and sauté until lightly brown. Remove bacon, leaving the fat in the pot.
Heat oven to 325°.
Pat the chicken dry with paper towels, then salt and pepper. Add the chicken, breast side down in the pot and brown well, 5 to 6 minutes. After the breast side has browned, turn the chicken over using tongs and brown the bottom for 5 to 6 more minutes. Remove bird to a small sheet pan.
Drain the fat from the pot.
Heat 2 tablespoons butter, stirring until the foam has subsided. Add the potatoes and stir them to coat in butter for 2 minutes. Push potatoes to the sides to the pot and add chicken, breast-side up. Sprinkle bacon and onions over the potatoes and tuck the bouquet garni bag between the vegetables. Cover tightly with aluminum foil then the Dutch oven lid.
Heat covered oven on the stove top until all ingredients are sizzling, then place on the middle rack of the oven and roast for 1 hour and 10 minutes, or until done.